Monday, November 10, 2008

City living

I've just got back from three days in a city which features buildings designed by Eiffel, live jazz bands at every other eatery, fancy boutiques and shining new 5* hotels, a thriving arts scene and possibly the best prawns in the world. That last one should have told you that I was not on a short break to Paris, but actually in Maputo, capital of my adopted country. What a revelation! My memories of Maputo - I have not visited in three years - were of a dirty, congested and polluted city. I found it cleaner, more cosmopolitan and friendlier than I was expecting. It may have helped that my nice pensao (Jacaranda) was located in a fancy neighbourhood, and that the seminar I was attending was in one of the smartest hotels in town (Avenida), but I also enjoyed the Latin vibe, the cafe culture and the relative sophistication. It occurs to me that I've perhaps been in Pemba for too long and need to update my expectations of African capital cities, but if you're coming to Mozambique, give Maputo a few days of your time. You won't regret it.

An aside: the first day of the seminar coincided with the US election results. We were lead in a round of applause for Obama's victory - directed at the one US participant, irrespective of her actual political views - by the Minister of Tourism in his opening address. Kind of cool. The whole world is watching; no pressure, Barack (Kenya's most popular boys' name this year).

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Friday, November 30, 2007

Bear baiting

Am I alone in finding Vladimir Putin a very scary man? I’ve been following his political reforms (increasingly centralised power) repeated ratcheting-up of military posturing and indeed threatening behaviour very much aimed at the “West”: huge financial investments, re-starting long-suspended surveillance flights, upping long-range missiles and so on. Now I read in today’s on-line Guardian (would someone please remind me how to put in links?) that the forthcoming elections are being rigged through massive intimidation and bribery of voters, in particular state employees, but also students and the general public. Ballot stuffing is predicted, international observers number a puny 400, the evening news is showing 16 minute slots of his party’s electoral rallies. I am not surprised by any of this, but I do find it worrying. Obviously it is naïve to believe that Russia can entirely break free of Soviet-style authoritarianism in a matter of a few years, but it looks very much to me like they are regressing, with Putin ever more powerful and untouchable.

It’s difficult to know what an appropriate response should be. Antagonising Putin risks all-out hostility and withdrawal of cooperation on many important issues, and there is of course the real politik considerations of having them on side in the war on terror. (I don’t want to get into that one here, suffice to say I am not sold on the war on terror.) On the other hand, it’s a huge and powerful country, massively armed and potentially dangerous. Shouldn’t there be some murmurings from the international community?

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